At TEFAF, Spotlight on Van Cleef & Arpels' Heritage Collection

Every year in March, the small Dutch town of Maastricht transforms into an international capital of the art world. The most prestigious gallery owners exhibit masterpieces by major artists and designers, sought after by both collectors and art market players in search of new museum acquisitions. Amid the aisles of the TEFAF (The European Fine Art Foundation), a space designed as a precious and poetic boudoir reveals to visitors the Heritage collection of Van Cleef & Arpels. Since 2013, "TEFAF Maastricht provides an opportunity for Van Cleef & Arpels to put rare pieces on display. Representing various periods and sources of inspiration, they reflect the full richness of our Heritage collection", emphasizes Natacha Vassiltchikov, the high jewelry retail director of the house. The Heritage collection was born in 2007 to meet a growing interest from the house's clients in historical pieces offered by specialized dealers and in auctions. "We soon expanded it to numerous boutiques around the world and, ever since, it has attracted growing attention from collectors and connoisseurs." The collection includes about 150 vintage pieces created by Van Cleef & Arpels between the 1920s and the 1990s. For this 2026 edition of the TEFAF, the house had selected about 40 pieces that reflect the creativity and exceptional craftsmanship of the house throughout the last century. "We would like to offer the most comprehensive view possible of our rich history, with pieces from all the successive stylistic periods, in terms of aesthetics, models and savoir-faire . To this end, we are seeking emblematic creations from eras and styles ranging from Art Deco and Retro to the 1960s and 1970s, as well as the 1980s and 1990s." /public-objects/59da2415-77cb-43e3-b3ad-45b5db4b6110-5a4d2ac9-a1f0-431d-8cf4-1ff5c4b443cc-3.webp Image sélectionnée Among the pieces selected for TEFAF, a sumptuous Stalactite necklace in platinum, white gold, osmium and diamonds, crafted in 1963, illustrates the virtuosity of Van Cleef & Arpels in creating transformable jewelry, a tradition initiated as early as the 1920s. Composed of two rows of diamonds, baguettes and brilliants, this necklace can be worn with or without the pendant that evokes a flower with frosted petals, which is itself detachable into a clip and complemented by another two detachable elements. A masterful composition alongside which Van Cleef & Arpels also presented a lovely selection of precious objects, such as an elegant 1940 pillbox in yellow gold set with sapphires and diamonds, or a 1944 box in engraved yellow gold adorned with turquoises and rubies. Not to mention a few pieces to be worn on the lapel of a jacket, like this adorable 1960 doe clip in yellow, white and rose gold set with rubies, or a flamboyant 1955 Egret clip in white gold set with baguette, oval and brilliant diamonds, characteristic of the white jewelry of the 1950s. /public-objects/a7d547dc-a0be-4129-b66a-19fea633c0ea-89b0b431-5747-445d-b572-98c32b17bdda-1.webp Image sélectionnée "At the same time, we are careful to ensure that the jewelry pieces are still wearable, fit for today’s style and in a condition that meets the maison ’s standards," adds Natacha Vassiltchikov. "The collection is curated in collaboration with Van Cleef & Arpels experts, who apply their knowledge and discerning eye to select the best creations for our clients." Once a piece has been selected, it undergoes a thorough verification process in Van Cleef & Arpels' archives to confirm authenticity and to ensure that it has not been altered. It then continues its journey through our workshops, where it is repaired and cleaned if necessary. We do not, however, remove the patina, the small marks of time, which we believe lend the creation its character and charm." Because beyond their intrinsic and symbolic value, Van Cleef & Arpels understands that the allure of the vintage jewelry in its Heritage collection also lies in their ability to transcend time without ever distorting their original style.