« A Screw that Locks, a Screw that Joins. In 1969 this was nothing Short of Revolutionary. »

When the LOVE bracelet debuted in 1969, as a symbol of sentimental attachment, how was it different? “The LOVE bracelet effectively marked a departure from tradition but, at the same time, was part of a continuity. Why continuity? Because describing jewelry as symbolic is really a pleonasm. All jewelry has symbolic value. More than that, this symbolic value is the very essence of jewelry and has been for thousands of years, in almost every culture, not least because jewelry relates so intimately to the body. More specifically, giving and wearing jewelry as a symbol of emotional attachment is an ancient custom. Think of wedding rings, for example, or lockets that contain a strand of hair. If we limit our observations to the 20th century, numerous figurative pieces come to mind, such as rings representing clasped hands or Cupid’s arrows. The LOVE bracelet is different because it represents emotional attachment with a contemporary motif. LOVE expresses attachment with something mechanical, an everyday object. A screw that locks, a screw that joins. In 1969 this was nothing short of revolutionary.” /public-objects/d310fc00-cadd-4575-aa20-cef390283cf4-50bec15b-85fc-4fe7-8ff7-b7b02fddfee5-PIERRE_RAINERO_%C3%82%C2%A9%20Jean-Fran%C3%83%C2%A7ois%20ROBERT.webp Image sélectionnée Using screws to symbolize love would certainly have been a modern message. “Cartier looks constantly for new forms and has always been curious about expressions of beauty beyond the classical or conventional. By this I mean designs inspired by other cultures or eras, but also explorations of objects that are part of daily life, such as the LOVE bracelet’s famous screw. Remember that already, at that time, Cartier had a long history of jewelry and watches with unusual forms.” The LOVE Unlimited bracelet was designed as gender-neutral. Yet another example of Cartier breaking the mold? “This is also part of a tradition at Cartier, alongside explorations of new forms. Our watches are one example, as of the early years of the last century. The Trinity ring is another, having celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2024 with the introduction of a new square silhouette. At Cartier, we believe a good shape is independent of gender and that each individual should embrace the beauty of an object in a way that is personal to them. More than that: whatever symbolism we, at Cartier, believe a design conveys is nothing compared with the significance each of us might attach to it. A piece of jewelry will live its life as its wearer decides, and so it should. Straight away, this was the case with the LOVE bracelet, a symbol of attachment as much for women as for men. Possibly men saw the mechanical inspiration of the screw as a pretext, at a time when there were greater limitations on how a man was expected to behave. The freedom men have to choose jewelry or watches for the sheer beauty of the object, to disregard cultural prejudice as to the supposed gender of this or that object, is actually quite recent.” /public-objects/de1c6d5b-ef72-4110-a476-9ac7b983ae0c-775c1703-8498-403b-9ea4-84bf871acddf-LOVE%20UNLIMITED%20BRACELET%20-%20WG2560.webp Image sélectionnée The new LOVE Unlimited bracelet is in flexible gold. How did Cartier reconcile the identity of the original design with this technical innovation? “This is something we constantly bear in mind at Cartier, right from the initial design choice. Whenever we decide to propose a new creation, we consider its capacity to evolve. When we talk about a powerful design, we mean its originality and its capacity to bring something different to what already exists, but equally its ability to open up future possibilities. The LOVE bracelet has lent itself to multiple variations in terms of materials and colors. When you see this new version on the wrist, first impressions are that it’s simply the surface that has changed. Only the wearer understands its flexibility. The sensation when worn is completely different. It’s a sensation of comfort, a softness to the touch. It’s jewelry you want to play with.” /public-objects/e6b227ff-5e4b-4175-9f28-4e0d02071710-0bfe11be-83a6-4f77-ba9b-eb13416ccf9f-LOVE%20UNLIMITED%20RING%20-%20YG2560.webp Image sélectionnée What did you intend this fluid structure to express? “First and foremost, we were guided by the look and feel of the bracelet. It’s a very sensual piece. After that, we come back to our earlier discussion of symbolic value. It has a very different consistency and texture, which are ultimately personal, intimate sensations.” How does Cartier envision love and how is love part of the house’s history? “The gift of a Cartier creation, in its red box, is a powerful token of a person’s love. Cartier’s history is a succession of legendary love stories, such as the marriage of Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly, Wallis Simpson’s engagement ring or the Taylor-Burton diamond. But love doesn’t belong to us. It belongs to our clients. What greater proof of love for Cartier than to see how our creations come to life in their hands?” /public-objects/8b5575ef-9357-4d92-865e-6a1d2c1fcd3e-caa7f73a-4553-4308-b1a4-b6dc21c74f7d-LOVE_FORMATS-PRESSE-01_0008_SHOT01_CAMERA1_2592_14_SP_450DPI_RVB.webp Image sélectionnée