Memos

Curated news from the world of jewelry.

LOOK BACK IN WONDER Finding new directions from archive pieces is generally an exciting prospect, but a delicate exercise from a creative point of view. Buglari shows how it should be done with Vimini, the inaugural chapter in the Bvlgari Eternal collection. The starting point for this new line was a sculptural gold bracelet from 1942. Lucia Silvestri, the Roman house’s jewelry creative director, drew inspiration from this archival piece for a necklace, bracelet, ring and two pairs of earrings—as well as one-of-a-kind high jewelry pieces—that recall the codes of Italian Rationalism. Gold is central to each of these powerful designs, in particular the bracelet which is at the heart of the collection. Like a precious weave, rhomboid shapes secured by invisible flexible links envelop the wrist in spectacular fashion. On the high jewelry pieces, the contrast of gold, black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) and diamonds accentuates the raw strength of this architectural motif. /public-objects/f23d9de9-43ff-4738-baf5-2fdecfd0443f-fc29a772-f825-49d5-9c32-b7f4929fe2c4-Sans%20titre-1.webp Image sélectionnée GEOMETRY OF LIGHT For more than ten years, Marli has captured the dynamic energy of New York City in collections that celebrate women’s individuality. Now, its signature pyramid shape appears on the dial of the brand’s first ever watch. Crafted from mother-of-pearl, the dial shimmers in a mesmerizing play of light, while a carpet of 344 diamonds totaling 6.442 carats dazzle on the bracelet and case in white gold. At 30mm, this watch is small in size but big on impact! /public-objects/7f4ba35c-e00f-436c-a219-c201d9832995-2a393fb5-8269-4b34-8da2-ccaa2e7e8d7b-Sans%20titre-2.webp Image sélectionnée TRAIT MODERN “While diamonds have always been central to my life, I wanted to explore gold as a material in its own right.” Working from this intent, Valérie Messika imagined her new Moderniste collection as sculptures that explore the clean, pure forms of modernist architecture. /public-objects/cec2adcc-4060-4eec-b8ec-cee67b2b0313-ba78c11e-4291-4a9a-93f5-e6db3d03c785-Sans%20titre-3.webp Image sélectionnée PRECIOUS BLOOMS Damiano Grassi Damiani, whose father founded the Italian jewelry house Damiani, imagined the Mimosa collection as a heartfelt homage to his wife and daughter. Earrings, rings and multi-wrap bracelets lend themselves to a joyous mosaic of white and brown diamonds, opals and multicolored sapphires. The result is a celebration of nature and femininity, illuminated by clusters of mimosa flowers. /public-objects/86eaa12a-e4a1-428c-bcf3-9ac8bcaff22c-15cfeae8-caf8-4299-8bcd-5ba2f1421579-Sans%20titre-4.webp Image sélectionnée