Jewerly that moves with the times
In 1906 Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels opened a boutique at 22, Place Vendôme in Paris. They united their destinies in a jewelry house that has continued to capture their poetic vision for more than a century. Yet beneath this constancy lies a rare talent for capturing the zeitgeist in jewelry that mirrors the endless evolutions and transformations of fashion and society.
Over the decades, Van Cleef & Arpels has curated a collection of some 3,000 patrimonial pieces that offer a vivid account of how its creations are shaped by their era. Separate from this collection, which is shown at global exhibitions, since 2007 the Heritage collection has assembled some 150 pieces ranging from the 1920s to the 1990s, and which are presented for sale. Together, these Patrimony and Heritage collections offer a rich illustration of how Van Cleef & Arpels has constantly engaged with the spirit of the day. /public-objects/12eca5a9-fc92-41e1-8689-3939b817d76b-9584e9bb-49f9-43e4-9d14-f888a9f11091-Clip%20Chrysanth%C3%83%C2%A8me%2C%201937%20Platine%2C%20or%20jaune%2C%20serti%20Myst%C3%83%C2%A9rieux%20rubis%20et%20diamants%20Collection%20Van%20Cleef%20%26%20Arpels.webp Image sélectionnée FROM THE ROARING TWENTIES TO THE WAR YEARS The 1920s signaled a new era. Women were freed from corsets. Hemlines rose, arms were bared, hair cropped. At the same time, jewelry embraced Art Deco, with form-fitting cuffs and long necklaces that emphasized slender silhouettes. In the 1930s, as artistic director, Alfred and Estelle’s daughter Renée Puissant set in motion a new and decisive creative energy. She quickly understood women’s desire for transformable jewelry such as the Passe-Partout, that was created and patented in 1938. Functionality was also at the heart of her designs. 1933 saw the introduction of the Minaudière, soon followed, in 1934, by the Ludo. Its mesh bracelet was manufactured by the meter in Italy, mirroring the same concepts of rationalization and series production that had emerged in design, earlier in the century. /public-objects/798820c7-fac8-4458-bb5a-3d533c5b0775-230eeaf2-e794-4da3-be6e-dab3b618f0b8-Clip%20f%C3%83%C2%A9e%20libellule%2C%201941.%20Collection%20Van%20Cleef%20%26%20Arpels.webp Image sélectionnée In the 1940s the house faced the challenges and difficulties of the Second World War. Platinum, now channeled into the war effort, was replaced by yellow gold. But Van Cleef & Arpels had no intention of abandoning its poetic vision of the world. Its animal brooches and birds in flight delivered messages of hope and resistance. At the Liberation of Paris, sapphires, diamonds and rubies formed the colors of the Allied flags in a celebration of new-found freedom. This is also when another of the house’s iconic figures took its first steps. Created in 1941, the Little Winged Fairy clip echoed the surrealist fantasies observed in the visual arts during the war years. FROM HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR TO THE ALHAMBRA Post-war prosperity was reflected in luxurious jewels, influenced by Hollywood glamour. Rivers of diamonds were mounted in platinum for evening wear. At a time when a lady would adapt her wardrobe throughout the day, Van Cleef & Arpels proposed jewelry that could be worn in multiple ways. In 1954 the house opened a new space at 22, Place Vendôme. Reserved for more affordable pieces, produced in small series, it soon became home to a parade of whimsical animals. No longer so serious, jewelry was having fun. The 1960s ushered in a decade of change. Twiggy ruled the catwalk, Roy Lichtenstein painted Pop art, Paco Rabanne dressed models in metal. Households enjoyed greater purchasing power. Casual was the new chic. In 1968, amidst this atmosphere of exuberance and freedom, the Alhambra necklace’s four-leaf clover design matched the mood of jewelry as part of everyday expression. This bohemian spirit continued into the next decade. Wooden beads were threaded into long necklaces, while Indian inspirations embraced color and a certain hippie-chic. /public-objects/08aa910c-d61e-482d-9eb5-3b8a4e62ad8e-9f72e9ca-5c23-4c1b-941e-3c6ccfd99324-Collier%20Zip%2C%201951.%20Collection%20Van%20Cleef%20%26%20Arpels.webp Image sélectionnée A 1980s REVIVAL AND A HERITAGE COLLECTION In jewelry, as in fashion, the 1980s are back in style. Oversized pieces, geometric shapes and bold colors are in demand among discerning collectors who can turn to Van Cleef & Arpels’ Heritage collection. Sympathetically restored and accompanied by a certificate of authenticity, a little piece of the century’s history unfolds in this constellation of jewels. /public-objects/e6801c80-b4c9-41cd-91db-be935fb515c2-9db23c22-848b-4bde-a702-f4f42aa6c3ae-Clip%20Ballerine%2C%201952%20Platine%2C%20or%20jaune%2C%20turquoises%2C%20rubis%2C%20diamant%20Collection%20Van%20Cleef%20%26%20Arpels.webp Image sélectionnée