Italian Splendors
Italian jewelry is about style and substance, exuberance and attention to detail, as visitors to Haute Jewels Geneva discovered, courtesy of the 25 Italian jewelry houses who exhibited at the fair’s seventh edition, in April.
Every connoisseur of high jewelry knows Buccellati. The epitome of Italian style, the house is characterized by its hand-engraving, its intricate openwork techniques creating textures that mimic delicate lace or tulle, and its Byzantine and Renaissance influences. While not exhibiting at Haute Jewels Geneva, Buccellati remains a foremost reference for this subtle yet generous aesthetic, also practiced by two great names in Italian jewelry who were at the fair: Damiani and Pasquale Bruni. Each excels in the art of bringing nature to life in precious stones. The event trained the spotlight on the creative vocabulary of Italian jewelry—one that is immediately recognizable by its opulence, a sense of movement and a taste for colored gemstones—, including some brands that are less familiar to the wider public. /public-objects/f94f35b6-8c04-4c73-9750-00e07764777a-27333e99-02c4-4ead-9fcd-9a0b6b220c80-Dolce%26Gabbana_Fine_Jewelry_Eleganza_Collection_Collier.webp Image sélectionnée Movement and color Generous in spirit, refined designs are precisely executed; expressive pieces are always in motion. Unlike its northern European counterpart, Italian jewelry smooths corners and curves lines, offering an endless spectacle of loops, arabesques, spirals and swirls. Such details were in evidence at Cammilli Firenze, Palmiero, Benoit, Ferri Firenze and Mattia Cielo, who unveiled a large coiled bracelet. At Gorgoglione, interlacing motifs, filigree and trefoils echo the richly ornamented and sculpted facades of Venetian palaces, where one curve flows into another. And when it comes to gemstones, the Italians adore color! Dolce & Gabbana’s jewelry was a riot of vibrant cabochons, with influences from the Baroque period, as well as Sicily. /public-objects/9921cca7-a0ae-4de2-acf2-60892e27bfb3-536951d8-ca64-4a44-a699-7d2e02c36bae-1.webp Image sélectionnée From a rich, deep emerald to a rainbow of colored sapphires, Italian jewelry revels in its exuberant personality. It also harnesses increasingly sophisticated techniques to create a sensual experience. Famed for its heart-shaped diamonds, Recarlo’s necklaces are more and more flexible. Serafino Consoli takes the suppleness and modularity of its designs further still, with rings that expand to become bracelets. Jewelry is this art of transformation, a constantly evolving balance of innovation, craftsmanship and ancestral techniques—as the Italians show. /public-objects/ade8f5b9-0b38-4507-ba7e-11305c251501-8524a3d8-74bc-4446-ab9a-23788f79622c-Benoi_Collier.webp Image sélectionnée