Interview of Catherine Rénier

“JUST AS EACH SEASON BRINGS NEW FLOWERS, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CULTIVATES ITS OWN CREATIVE GARDEN.” When did flowers become part of Van Cleef & Arpels’ world and what makes them still such an important element today? “Flowers have accompanied Van Cleef & Arpels ever since the house was established in 1906. From these earliest days, floral clips have been part of a language in which nature becomes a spontaneous and universal source of inspiration. Van Cleef & Arpels stands out for the way this inspiration is expressed, through unique craftsmanship, delicate volumes, flowing contours, a rich color palette and a wealth of forms. Nature is shown as generous, springlike and full of movement, seeking spontaneity rather than rigid symmetry. The Flowerlace collection illustrates this with the irregular lines of its petals, cutaway silhouettes and a lightness that captures the swift movements of the artist’s hand. This vision continues to inform our creativity, through reimagined forms and freedom of interpretation.” What inspiration did you take from the house heritage when creating Fleurs d’Hawaï and Flowerlace? “These collections are embedded in our identity. Fleurs d’Hawaï is inspired by a floral design from the 1930s, with gemstone petals and a delicate leaf in gold. Bringing this figurative motif to life requires particular expertise. The gemstones must be rigorously selected then carefully matched, paying particular attention to color, all to reveal the natural beauty of the stones. Flowerlace offers a more abstract interpretation, originating with a 1937 clip whose petals unfold in a ribbon of gold that suggests both nature and couture. This duality reflects the wealth of inspiration Van Cleef & Arpels finds in the natural world.” Does this heritage fuel the creative process or, on the contrary, is it more a constraint? “Heritage is a powerful driving force. It tells us about the house’s codes, its inspirations and signature techniques. Certain themes, such as nature, ballet, gold and color, appear time and again, as do important innovations, such as the Mystery Set, which nurture creativity. Van Cleef & Arpels sees creation as enriching a narrative while respecting its essence. Heritage provides markers and brings coherence over a long period, at the same time leaving room for innovation and new stories.” Which parts of the 1930s clips did you keep, or transform, for Flowerlace? “We began with the ribbon of gold that evokes a magnificent flower to then imagine a contemporary collection, one that is designed to last and evolve. Each piece — rings, clips and earrings — adapts to different sizes and uses. The pavage accentuates the contrast between gold and light, between solid and cutaway lines. This isn’t a reproduction of the 1937 Fleur Silhouette clip. It is a reinvention that respects the spirit of the house, in a contemporary style.” Fleurs d’Hawaï celebrates color with gemstones. What guided your choice of stones? “The flower is made entirely from stones. Each petal is a gemstone, set around a central pistil, with no defined contours. Selecting stones of the required quality and in sufficient number to perfectly match them was quite a challenge. We chose five varieties — rhodolite, citrine, amethyst, peridot and aquamarine — which reflect the house’s favorite color palette and ensured the pieces would be technically feasible, hence the dialogue between our gemologists and our Creative Studio that preceded each choice.” /public-objects/d1f6af3a-92c5-4de0-aa5f-01a8a0a53647-513d8358-1aa1-489f-97a7-3d2eb5202393-VCA_VCARF93700_T3014_V3007_B00061000.webp Image sélectionnée Is transformable jewelry a tradition at Van Cleef & Arpels? “Yes, since the 1930s. Necklaces mounted on chains could be worn as bracelets, belts or chokers. The 1950s Zip necklace is an iconic design that closes like a zip fastener to become a bracelet. Such versatility remains key. For example, the Fleurs d’Hawaï watch is detachable and transforms into a clip. This capacity to adapt jewels to a particular mood or moment forms part of the house’s identity. It offers a different experience of jewelry that mixes elegance, ingenuity and heritage.” /public-objects/a4324258-c860-4304-b98d-10a685e51f2c-8e0a2742-1b44-4694-9db3-32c9d0c65938-VCA_VCARPET500_T3014_V3007_B0006-XXXXXX-I-copie1000.webp Image sélectionnée Why choose Dumfries House in Scotland to present Fleurs d’Hawaï and Flowerlace? “Dumfries House represents shared values of heritage, expertise and a deep connection with nature. Since 2008 the house has worked with The King’s Foundation, including for the creation of a rose garden at Dumfries House, and so it was only natural that we should unveil these floral-inspired collections there. Inside the estate’s greenhouse, jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels dialogued with an array of flowers: two expressions of a single theme, embracing spontaneous nature and reinvented nature. Just as each season brings new flowers, Van Cleef & Arpels cultivates its own creative garden.”