The eternal signet ring

The ultimate aristocratic jewel, the signet ring’s return center-stage shows it is not just timeless. It is eternal.

Traditionally associated with the medieval period, the first known signet rings are considerably older. Recognizable by an engraved flat face, signet rings adorned the fingers of the ancient Greeks and Egyptians, four thousand years ago. Carved with symbols of deities or mythical beasts, they indicated the wearer’s authority and high rank. Signet rings became prominent during the Middle Ages, when male members of the nobility wore one on their fourth finger as a sign of power and influence. “A gold signet ring is traditionally engraved with a family crest or coat of arms. A sign of lineage, it served to stamp a wax seal on correspondence,” explains Julien Rousseau, director of Arthus Bertrand, which has been crafting signet rings for 222 years. Indeed, “signet” derives from the Latin signum, meaning “mark” or “seal”—a function that disappeared when wax seals were replaced by handwritten signatures. While still serving a practical purpose, Renaissance signet rings placed greater emphasis on ornateness by incorporating intricate engravings and gemstones. By the eighteenth century, the signet ring had evolved into a status symbol, worn by a gentleman to denote an elevated rank in society. /public-objects/fba32488-096d-4596-b99a-3aefdfa2622d-979c601e-0884-4fe9-a1f2-6df55599a903-2.webp Image sélectionnée Never out of style Since then, the signet ring has never looked back. “Our production remains steady,” notes Julien Rousseau. “A large proportion of the orders we receive is still for rings engraved with family crests, although signet rings have become something of a trend in recent years. This has led to greater variety in our bespoke designs and also inspired us to introduce a collection that includes one of our best-sellers, the Stella pinky signet ring.” /public-objects/97d0e3d8-d68e-4e10-ba82-50407cc56284-95ef5586-4553-4bda-bb18-d9194dfc2e55-Sans%20titre-1.webp Image sélectionnée Worn by men and women, reclaimed by young generations, reimagined by jewelers, signet rings are trending across Insta as well as on red carpets, adopted by Taylor Swift and Jacob Elordi. This resurgence changes nothing of the signet ring’s essence. Its form remains intact although its face has become a canvas for an infinite palette of symbols and designs. Cece Fein Hugues, founder of Cece Jewellery, transforms signet rings into miniature tableaux, captured in engraving, hand-painted enamel and precious stones. Contemporary symbols abound in her collections and bespoke creations, where the language of heraldry gives way to palm trees or signs of the zodiac. Proof that the signet ring has made its mark. /public-objects/d520afb5-2c26-4e07-8779-d92de3fc8962-bc642802-6420-4035-a2e3-8b34995d1518-Sans%20titre-1.webp Image sélectionnée